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All operations continued to be performed by hand until factory production of cloth was made possible by the invention of foot- and water-powered machinery for spinning and weaving in the 18th century. This development in turn stimulated the invention of the sewing machine. An early sewing machine was designed and manufactured by Barth�lemy Thimonnier of France in 1841 to mass-produce uniforms for the French Army, but rioting tailors destroyed the machines. Thimonniers design, in any event, merely mechanized the hand-sewing operation; a decisive improvement was embodied in a sewing machine built by Walter Hunt of New York City in about 18-4 but never patented, and independently by Elias Howe of Spencer, Mass., and patented in 1846. In both machines a curved eye-pointed needle moved in an arc as it carried the thread through the fabric, on the other side of which it interlocked with a second thread carried by a shuttle running back and forth on a track. Howes highly successful machine was widely copied, leading to extensive patent litigation and ultimately to a patent pool that included the design of Isaac Merrit Singer, the largest manufacturer. In 1860 more than 110,000 sewing machines were produced in the United States alone. When the sewing machine was first introduced, it was used only for simple seams; the more complex sewing operations were still done with a hand needle. The machines before Singers were hand-powered, but Singer quickly popularized foot-powered machines.
For many years the sewing machine was the only machine used by the clothing industry. The next major development was the introduction in England in 1860 of the band-knife machine that cut several thicknesses of cloth at one time. It was invented by John Barran of Leeds, the founder of the Leeds clothing industry, who substituted a knife edge for the saw edge of a woodworking machine.
The prime characteristic of a sewing machine is the stitch it makes. Until 16, stitches were classified willy-nilly with trade terms that often varied from one place to another and even from shop to shop. In 16 the U.S. government became the first government to issue a seam and stitch classification to specify its requirements. During the 160s other countries began to adopt the latest versions of these specifications for sewing equipment and sewn products, and these specifications are now being adopted throughout the world for industrial sewing.
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The first hand-powered sewing machines in the 1th century sewed 0 stitches per minute. At the turn of the century some electrically powered machines sewed 00 stitches, and by mid-0th century machine speeds reached 4,500. By 170 most machines could sew 7,000, and some could sew 8,000 stitches per minute. The first integrated sewing machine was introduced in 16 by the Singer Company.
Until the second half of the 1th century, practically all clothes and shoes were produced by individual tailors and cobblers working either alone or with one or two apprentices or journeymen. The goal of every apprentice tailor was to learn how to make an entire garment as soon as possible. The output of a tailor or seamstress was usually limited to specific womens, mens, or childrens garmentsThe invention of the sewing machine enlarged craftsmens shops and converted them to factories. In many factories workers owned their machines and carried them from factory to factory whenever they changed jobs. Needleworkers lugging their machines on their backs were a common sight on the downtown East Side streets of New York City, the garment-manufacturing capital of the world at the turn of the 0th century. Taking advantage of the low capital investment per worker, many clothing entrepreneurs began to farm out their cut garments to be sewn at home. The bundle brigades--men, women, and children trudging through the streets lugging bundles of cut or finished garments to and from their flats in the East Side tenements--replaced the sewing-machine carriers of previous years.
The sewing machine takes something time consuming and laborious and makes it fast and easy. The invention of the sewing machine contributed to the growth of the ready- made clothing industry in the late 1th and early 0th century; it also made possible the mass production of clothing on a much larger scale than had ever been possible with hand stiching.
With the invecntion of the sewing machine, manufacturers could suddenly produce piles of high quality clothing at minimal expense. Because of this technology, the vast mayority of people in the world can now afford “the sort of sturdy,” finely-stiched clothes that were a luxury only 00 years ago.
Sewing machines are like cars there are hundreads of models on the market and they vary considerably in price and performance. At the low end of the scale, there are conventional nofrills electric designs ideal for occasional home use; and at the high end, there are sophisticated electronic machines that are attached to a computer.
The earliest sewing machine was powered by the turning of a hand crank. Later appeared a foot-thread and crank arrangment so that the operator use born hands in guiding the material under the needle.
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